Freqently Asked Questions

Read this to save time and help us serve you better!

Q: What is typical turnaround time on propeller repairs?

A: Stainless steel and aluminum props typically take 2-3 working days to repair. Bronze and nibral inboard propellers, and big weld up jobs on stainless steel props, usually take a little longer. If you need quicker service let us know when you drop the prop off–we will try to accommodate you.

Q: What will it cost to repair my propeller?

A: All props are different, and sometimes we can see damage that you can’t. So we can’t really price a prop without seeing it. Bring your prop to our shop and we’ll give you a free quote.

Q: What will it cost to replace the hub in my propeller?

A: There are a lot of different hubs out there and we need to see your prop to make sure we are talking about the right hub. A common one we see is the Yamaha 150-300 hp propeller–those rubber hubs are $80 to $100, depending on the hub. The SDS1 hub for those motors is $230–and you probably can’t tell the difference, so that’s a good example of why we need to see your prop to price a rehub.

Q: Can I bring you my boat and you’ll remove my propeller so you can fix it?

A: No, we are not set up for that.   You can remove most outboard and stern drive propellers easily with common hand tools, then simply bring us the propeller.  If you have an inboard we are happy to loan pullers for you to use.  Call and discuss that with us.

Q: What is the best/fastest/best hole shot prop for my boat?

A: The bottom line is that the right prop for your boat will make it turn within your maximum rated rpm range at full throttle, with the motor trimmed up and a normal load. To determine whether you have the right prop, we need some simple and specific info–run your boat full out, note rpms, then bring us the prop so we can ID it. We can then talk about options to improve performance. Of course if you have a new boat with no prop we can recommend something to get started with, based on charts and our many years of experience. But overall current performance info is the best place to start when trying to improve performance.

Q: Are hub kit props better than rubber hub props:

A: Functionally there is usually no difference–they will both work and fit. But three things to keep in mind: 1) Most motors over 200 hp should use something other than an old style rubber hub, which do not hold up to the heat and hp of modern motors. All the motor manfacturers have moved away from rubber hubs on big motors and we sell a lot of props with the bullet proof CushionLock hub from PowerTech. 2) Many hub kit props are “universal”–which mean they fit everything but don’t work particularly well on anything. Especially on smaller motors, it’s best to use an OEM or OEM match (like Michigan Match) to maintain performance and not confuse attaching hardware. 3) Speaking of hardware, you need to be careful mixing and match OEM fitment props with hub kit props–the hardware is usually very different. That’s why we like to see what’s on your boat when you come in to buy a new one–we can get you one that fits the same, or supply what you need to make a new prop fit properly.

Q: What are your hours, and where are you located?

A: We are open 8 a.m. until 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday (closed Saturdays and all holidays). We are located at 6235 S. Manhattan Ave, Tampa, 33616, one mile south of Gandy just east of the Gandy Bridge.